pasta.txt

Think of this pasta as a simpler, less fattening, and more grown-up version of macaroni and cheese. The “sauce” requires just two ingredients. One is fresh black pepper. The second is Pecorino Romano. Because Pecorino is Rome’s traditional hard cheese, all three of the Roman pastas I’m writing about here call for it; if you’re feeling dedicated, therefore, it’s worth tracking down at a specialty food store. If you really want to do it up, look for the label D.O.P., which stands for denominazione d’origine protetta; it’s the European Union–regulated stamp of authentication. Without this, in the U.S., there’s no guarantee what you’re getting is really Pecorino.

Ingredients:

Pecorino Romano (one cup, finely grated)
Fresh black pepper
Spaghetti (4 oz dry)
Salt

Instructions:

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Add pasta and cook until al dente, or “to the tooth” – meaning still very firm. That often takes a little less time than what the instructions for al dente on the box tell you: A box of Barilla’s No. 7 thick spaghetti sold in the U.S., for example, recommends 11 to 12 minutes; my count is closer to 10.5.

Drain the pasta, setting a little pasta water aside. Meanwhile, melt the cheese and pepper in a skillet over heat. Add some of the reserved pasta water if it’s not quite creamy enough. You want the mixture to be gooey, though, not thin.

Swirl in the spaghetti; grate more Pecorino Romano on top and add a zesty portion of fresh-ground black pepper, and salt (to taste), if needed. Serve immediately.