diff --git a/TROUBLESHOOTING.md b/TROUBLESHOOTING.md
index 66ca54c8..4149d6b2 100644
--- a/TROUBLESHOOTING.md
+++ b/TROUBLESHOOTING.md
@@ -79,7 +79,7 @@ and/or:
 Error: ENOENT: no such file or directory, scandir '.../public/google-fonts'
 ```
 
-1. Create the expected directories before (or after) a clean:
+1. Create the expected directories before (or after) a clean — preferably via the local plugin `plugins/ensure-google-fonts-dirs` (registered first in `config/plugins`) which runs `onPreInit` / `onPreBootstrap`:
 
 ```sh
 mkdir -p .cache/google-fonts/fonts public/google-fonts
@@ -304,3 +304,50 @@ Given `npm install` / `npm ci` floods the terminal with `npm warn deprecated …
 3. Prefer fixing/removing those roots over adding an `override` per leaf package;
 4. Keep using Node 18 + `npm install --legacy-peer-deps` for this stack.
 
+## Gatsby HMR: bundle has N errors / ENOENT in node_modules
+
+Given the browser console (with `gatsby develop` running) shows:
+
+```
+[HMR] connected
+[HMR] bundle has 26 errors
+Module build failed: Error: ENOENT: no such file or directory, open '…/node_modules/…'
+```
+
+for paths such as `@hot-loader/react-dom/node_modules/scheduler/…`, `axios/lib/defaults.js`, `gatsby-link/index.js`, or `gatsby/node_modules/@babel/runtime/helpers/…`:
+
+1. Stop every local Gatsby process:
+
+```sh
+pkill -f "gatsby develop" || true
+```
+
+2. Wipe install artifacts and reinstall on **Node 18**:
+
+```sh
+export PATH="/opt/homebrew/opt/node@18/bin:$PATH"
+export NODE_OPTIONS=--openssl-legacy-provider
+rm -rf node_modules .cache
+npm install --legacy-peer-deps --ignore-scripts
+```
+
+3. On Apple Silicon, restore a working `sharp` (see the sharp / ARM section above), e.g.:
+
+```sh
+npm install sharp@0.32.6 --save-exact --legacy-peer-deps --no-save --foreground-scripts
+```
+
+4. Recreate font cache dirs, then start develop:
+
+```sh
+mkdir -p .cache/google-fonts/fonts public/google-fonts
+npm run develop
+```
+
+5. Hard-refresh the browser (or close the tab) so HMR is not stuck on the old broken module graph.
+
+6. If webpack fails with `Can't resolve 'gatsby-link'` / `gatsby-react-router-scroll` from `.cache`, keep those packages as **direct** dependencies matching the nested Gatsby 2 versions (`gatsby-link@2.11.0`, `gatsby-react-router-scroll@3.7.0`) so npm hoists them for the develop SSR bundle.
+7. If `gatsby-recipes` crashes with `Error [ERR_REQUIRE_ESM]` for `remark-mdx`, keep the npm override `"remark-mdx": "1.6.22"` in `package.json` (CJS-compatible) and re-run `npm install --legacy-peer-deps`. See #451.
+
+Do **not** leave `gatsby develop` running while deleting or partially rewriting `node_modules` — that is the usual way this ENOENT storm starts.
+
diff --git a/config/plugins/index.js b/config/plugins/index.js
index d1bb12b3..dd43f960 100644
--- a/config/plugins/index.js
+++ b/config/plugins/index.js
@@ -1,6 +1,10 @@
 const siteMetadata = require("../siteMetadata")
 
 const plugins = [
+  // Must run before gatsby-plugin-prefetch-google-fonts (creates .cache/google-fonts/fonts).
+  {
+    resolve: `${__dirname}/../../plugins/ensure-google-fonts-dirs`,
+  },
   {
     resolve: `gatsby-plugin-canonical-urls`,
     options: {
diff --git a/config/plugins/index.test.js b/config/plugins/index.test.js
index 2fe6b55a..7c7082a7 100644
--- a/config/plugins/index.test.js
+++ b/config/plugins/index.test.js
@@ -6,6 +6,20 @@ const plugins = require(".")
 const filterByPluginName = (plugins, pluginName) =>
   plugins.filter((obj) => obj.resolve === pluginName)
 
+describe("ensure-google-fonts-dirs", () => {
+  it("is registered before gatsby-plugin-prefetch-google-fonts", () => {
+    const ensureIndex = plugins.findIndex((plugin) =>
+      String(plugin.resolve).endsWith("ensure-google-fonts-dirs")
+    )
+    const fontsIndex = plugins.findIndex(
+      (plugin) => plugin.resolve === "gatsby-plugin-prefetch-google-fonts"
+    )
+
+    expect(ensureIndex).toBe(0)
+    expect(fontsIndex).toBeGreaterThan(ensureIndex)
+  })
+})
+
 describe("Canonical URL", () => {
   it("should be correct", () => {
     const [config] = filterByPluginName(plugins, "gatsby-plugin-canonical-urls")
diff --git a/package-lock.json b/package-lock.json
index f08c885a..b28f56d0 100644
--- a/package-lock.json
+++ b/package-lock.json
@@ -19,6 +19,7 @@
         "clsx": "1.1.1",
         "gatsby": "2.32.13",
         "gatsby-image": "2.11.0",
+        "gatsby-link": "2.11.0",
         "gatsby-plugin-canonical-urls": "2.10.0",
         "gatsby-plugin-layout": "1.10.0",
         "gatsby-plugin-manifest": "2.12.1",
@@ -28,6 +29,7 @@
         "gatsby-plugin-react-helmet": "3.10.0",
         "gatsby-plugin-sharp": "2.14.4",
         "gatsby-plugin-sitemap": "2.12.0",
+        "gatsby-react-router-scroll": "3.7.0",
         "gatsby-source-filesystem": "2.11.1",
         "gatsby-transformer-sharp": "2.12.1",
         "google-map-react": "2.1.8",
@@ -10865,14 +10867,6 @@
       "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/@turist/time/-/time-0.0.1.tgz",
       "integrity": "sha512-M2BiThcbxMxSKX8W4z5u9jKZn6datnM3+FpEU+eYw0//l31E2xhqi7vTAuJ/Sf0P3yhp66SDJgPu3bRRpvrdQQ=="
     },
-    "node_modules/@types/acorn": {
-      "version": "4.0.6",
-      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/@types/acorn/-/acorn-4.0.6.tgz",
-      "integrity": "sha512-veQTnWP+1D/xbxVrPC3zHnCZRjSrKfhbMUlEA43iMZLu7EsnTtkJklIuwrCPbOi8YkvDQAiW05VQQFvvz9oieQ==",
-      "dependencies": {
-        "@types/estree": "*"
-      }
-    },
     "node_modules/@types/aria-query": {
       "version": "4.2.0",
       "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/@types/aria-query/-/aria-query-4.2.0.tgz",
@@ -10994,15 +10988,8 @@
     "node_modules/@types/estree": {
       "version": "0.0.39",
       "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/@types/estree/-/estree-0.0.39.tgz",
-      "integrity": "sha512-EYNwp3bU+98cpU4lAWYYL7Zz+2gryWH1qbdDTidVd6hkiR6weksdbMadyXKXNPEkQFhXM+hVO9ZygomHXp+AIw=="
-    },
-    "node_modules/@types/estree-jsx": {
-      "version": "0.0.1",
-      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/@types/estree-jsx/-/estree-jsx-0.0.1.tgz",
-      "integrity": "sha512-gcLAYiMfQklDCPjQegGn0TBAn9it05ISEsEhlKQUddIk7o2XDokOcTN7HBO8tznM0D9dGezvHEfRZBfZf6me0A==",
-      "dependencies": {
-        "@types/estree": "*"
-      }
+      "integrity": "sha512-EYNwp3bU+98cpU4lAWYYL7Zz+2gryWH1qbdDTidVd6hkiR6weksdbMadyXKXNPEkQFhXM+hVO9ZygomHXp+AIw==",
+      "dev": true
     },
     "node_modules/@types/events": {
       "version": "3.0.0",
@@ -11046,6 +11033,7 @@
       "version": "2.3.4",
       "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/@types/hast/-/hast-2.3.4.tgz",
       "integrity": "sha512-wLEm0QvaoawEDoTRwzTXp4b4jpwiJDvR5KMnFnVodm3scufTlBOWRD6N1OBf9TZMhjlNsSfcO5V+7AF4+Vy+9g==",
+      "dev": true,
       "dependencies": {
         "@types/unist": "*"
       }
@@ -11281,14 +11269,6 @@
       "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/@types/lodash/-/lodash-4.14.162.tgz",
       "integrity": "sha512-alvcho1kRUnnD1Gcl4J+hK0eencvzq9rmzvFPRmP5rPHx9VVsJj6bKLTATPVf9ktgv4ujzh7T+XWKp+jhuODig=="
     },
-    "node_modules/@types/mdast": {
-      "version": "3.0.10",
-      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/@types/mdast/-/mdast-3.0.10.tgz",
-      "integrity": "sha512-W864tg/Osz1+9f4lrGTZpCSO5/z4608eUp19tbozkq2HJK6i3z1kT0H9tlADXuYIb1YYOBByU4Jsqkk75q48qA==",
-      "dependencies": {
-        "@types/unist": "*"
-      }
-    },
     "node_modules/@types/minimatch": {
       "version": "3.0.3",
       "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/@types/minimatch/-/minimatch-3.0.3.tgz",
@@ -11302,11 +11282,6 @@
         "@types/node": "*"
       }
     },
-    "node_modules/@types/ms": {
-      "version": "0.7.31",
-      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/@types/ms/-/ms-0.7.31.tgz",
-      "integrity": "sha512-iiUgKzV9AuaEkZqkOLDIvlQiL6ltuZd9tGcW3gwpnX8JbuiuhFlEGmmFXEXkN50Cvq7Os88IY2v0dkDqXYWVgA=="
-    },
     "node_modules/@types/node": {
       "version": "14.18.12",
       "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/@types/node/-/node-14.18.12.tgz",
@@ -14840,15 +14815,6 @@
         "node": ">=4"
       }
     },
-    "node_modules/ccount": {
-      "version": "2.0.1",
-      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/ccount/-/ccount-2.0.1.tgz",
-      "integrity": "sha512-eyrF0jiFpY+3drT6383f1qhkbGsLSifNAjA61IUjZjmLCWjItY6LB9ft9YhoDgwfmclB2zhu51Lc7+95b8NRAg==",
-      "funding": {
-        "type": "github",
-        "url": "https://github.com/sponsors/wooorm"
-      }
-    },
     "node_modules/chalk": {
       "version": "2.4.2",
       "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/chalk/-/chalk-2.4.2.tgz",
@@ -14880,15 +14846,6 @@
         "url": "https://github.com/sponsors/wooorm"
       }
     },
-    "node_modules/character-entities-html4": {
-      "version": "2.1.0",
-      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/character-entities-html4/-/character-entities-html4-2.1.0.tgz",
-      "integrity": "sha512-1v7fgQRj6hnSwFpq1Eu0ynr/CDEw0rXo2B61qXrLNdHZmPKgb7fqS1a2JwF0rISo9q77jDI8VMEHoApn8qDoZA==",
-      "funding": {
-        "type": "github",
-        "url": "https://github.com/sponsors/wooorm"
-      }
-    },
     "node_modules/character-entities-legacy": {
       "version": "1.1.4",
       "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/character-entities-legacy/-/character-entities-legacy-1.1.4.tgz",
@@ -17922,27 +17879,6 @@
       "integrity": "sha512-KaL7+6Fw6i5A2XSnsbhm/6B+NuEA7TZ4vqxnd5tXz9sbKtrN9Srj8ab4vKVdK8YAqZO9P1kg45Y6YLoduPf+kw==",
       "dev": true
     },
-    "node_modules/decode-named-character-reference": {
-      "version": "1.0.1",
-      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/decode-named-character-reference/-/decode-named-character-reference-1.0.1.tgz",
-      "integrity": "sha512-YV/0HQHreRwKb7uBopyIkLG17jG6Sv2qUchk9qSoVJ2f+flwRsPNBO0hAnjt6mTNYUT+vw9Gy2ihXg4sUWPi2w==",
-      "dependencies": {
-        "character-entities": "^2.0.0"
-      },
-      "funding": {
-        "type": "github",
-        "url": "https://github.com/sponsors/wooorm"
-      }
-    },
-    "node_modules/decode-named-character-reference/node_modules/character-entities": {
-      "version": "2.0.1",
-      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/character-entities/-/character-entities-2.0.1.tgz",
-      "integrity": "sha512-OzmutCf2Kmc+6DrFrrPS8/tDh2+DpnrfzdICHWhcVC9eOd0N1PXmQEE1a8iM4IziIAG+8tmTq3K+oo0ubH6RRQ==",
-      "funding": {
-        "type": "github",
-        "url": "https://github.com/sponsors/wooorm"
-      }
-    },
     "node_modules/decode-uri-component": {
       "version": "0.2.2",
       "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/decode-uri-component/-/decode-uri-component-0.2.2.tgz",
@@ -18356,14 +18292,6 @@
       "integrity": "sha512-xmHIy4F3scKVwMsQ4WnVaS8bHOx0DmVwRywosKhaILI0ywMDWPtBSku2HNxRvF7jtwDRsoEwYQSfbxj8b7RlJQ==",
       "dev": true
     },
-    "node_modules/dequal": {
-      "version": "2.0.2",
-      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/dequal/-/dequal-2.0.2.tgz",
-      "integrity": "sha512-q9K8BlJVxK7hQYqa6XISGmBZbtQQWVXSrRrWreHC94rMt1QL/Impruc+7p2CYSYuVIUr+YCt6hjrs1kkdJRTug==",
-      "engines": {
-        "node": ">=6"
-      }
-    },
     "node_modules/des.js": {
       "version": "1.0.1",
       "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/des.js/-/des.js-1.0.1.tgz",
@@ -18750,15 +18678,6 @@
         "node": ">=0.6.0"
       }
     },
-    "node_modules/diff": {
-      "version": "5.2.2",
-      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/diff/-/diff-5.2.2.tgz",
-      "integrity": "sha512-vtcDfH3TOjP8UekytvnHH1o1P4FcUdt4eQ1Y+Abap1tk/OB2MWQvcwS2ClCd1zuIhc3JKOx6p3kod8Vfys3E+A==",
-      "license": "BSD-3-Clause",
-      "engines": {
-        "node": ">=0.3.1"
-      }
-    },
     "node_modules/diff-sequences": {
       "version": "25.2.6",
       "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/diff-sequences/-/diff-sequences-25.2.6.tgz",
@@ -20106,28 +20025,6 @@
         "node": ">=4.0"
       }
     },
-    "node_modules/estree-util-is-identifier-name": {
-      "version": "2.0.0",
-      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/estree-util-is-identifier-name/-/estree-util-is-identifier-name-2.0.0.tgz",
-      "integrity": "sha512-aXXZFVMnBBDRP81vS4YtAYJ0hUkgEsXea7lNKWCOeaAquGb1Jm2rcONPB5fpzwgbNxulTvrWuKnp9UElUGAKeQ==",
-      "funding": {
-        "type": "github",
-        "url": "https://github.com/sponsors/wooorm"
-      }
-    },
-    "node_modules/estree-util-visit": {
-      "version": "1.1.0",
-      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/estree-util-visit/-/estree-util-visit-1.1.0.tgz",
-      "integrity": "sha512-3lXJ4Us9j8TUif9cWcQy81t9p5OLasnDuuhrFiqb+XstmKC1d1LmrQWYsY49/9URcfHE64mPypDBaNK9NwWDPQ==",
-      "dependencies": {
-        "@types/estree-jsx": "^0.0.1",
-        "@types/unist": "^2.0.0"
-      },
-      "funding": {
-        "type": "opencollective",
-        "url": "https://opencollective.com/unified"
-      }
-    },
     "node_modules/estree-walker": {
       "version": "2.0.2",
       "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/estree-walker/-/estree-walker-2.0.2.tgz",
@@ -22329,6 +22226,25 @@
         "core-js-compat": "^3.6.5"
       }
     },
+    "node_modules/gatsby-link": {
+      "version": "2.11.0",
+      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/gatsby-link/-/gatsby-link-2.11.0.tgz",
+      "integrity": "sha512-AYXxndlSx5mnYv+/PBPdPBRvdv1LeSGE3WO8uYj2ReYDSbhiAlF3KKz30D62ErartXP0deySPtRKx4Dd3nCFYw==",
+      "license": "MIT",
+      "dependencies": {
+        "@babel/runtime": "^7.12.5",
+        "@types/reach__router": "^1.3.7",
+        "prop-types": "^15.7.2"
+      },
+      "engines": {
+        "node": ">=10.13.0"
+      },
+      "peerDependencies": {
+        "@reach/router": "^1.3.3",
+        "react": "^16.4.2 || ^17.0.0",
+        "react-dom": "^16.4.2 || ^17.0.0"
+      }
+    },
     "node_modules/gatsby-page-utils": {
       "version": "0.9.1",
       "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/gatsby-page-utils/-/gatsby-page-utils-0.9.1.tgz",
@@ -23095,6 +23011,23 @@
         "gatsby": "^2.24.79"
       }
     },
+    "node_modules/gatsby-react-router-scroll": {
+      "version": "3.7.0",
+      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/gatsby-react-router-scroll/-/gatsby-react-router-scroll-3.7.0.tgz",
+      "integrity": "sha512-8sm04EQac7fccJZlllFEo349wAlNEuPVu35juuL0hgMDTyWlk4nPwPH/ACdpn2MgpEmrTSfp2yPxyzaRKVyzeQ==",
+      "license": "MIT",
+      "dependencies": {
+        "@babel/runtime": "^7.12.5"
+      },
+      "engines": {
+        "node": ">=10.13.0"
+      },
+      "peerDependencies": {
+        "@reach/router": "^1.0.0",
+        "react": "^16.4.2 || ^17.0.0",
+        "react-dom": "^16.4.2 || ^17.0.0"
+      }
+    },
     "node_modules/gatsby-recipes": {
       "version": "0.9.3",
       "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/gatsby-recipes/-/gatsby-recipes-0.9.3.tgz",
@@ -23160,6 +23093,73 @@
         "yoga-layout-prebuilt": "^1.9.6"
       }
     },
+    "node_modules/gatsby-recipes/node_modules/@babel/core": {
+      "version": "7.12.9",
+      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/@babel/core/-/core-7.12.9.tgz",
+      "integrity": "sha512-gTXYh3M5wb7FRXQy+FErKFAv90BnlOuNn1QkCK2lREoPAjrQCO49+HVSrFoe5uakFAF5eenS75KbO2vQiLrTMQ==",
+      "license": "MIT",
+      "dependencies": {
+        "@babel/code-frame": "^7.10.4",
+        "@babel/generator": "^7.12.5",
+        "@babel/helper-module-transforms": "^7.12.1",
+        "@babel/helpers": "^7.12.5",
+        "@babel/parser": "^7.12.7",
+        "@babel/template": "^7.12.7",
+        "@babel/traverse": "^7.12.9",
+        "@babel/types": "^7.12.7",
+        "convert-source-map": "^1.7.0",
+        "debug": "^4.1.0",
+        "gensync": "^1.0.0-beta.1",
+        "json5": "^2.1.2",
+        "lodash": "^4.17.19",
+        "resolve": "^1.3.2",
+        "semver": "^5.4.1",
+        "source-map": "^0.5.0"
+      },
+      "engines": {
+        "node": ">=6.9.0"
+      },
+      "funding": {
+        "type": "opencollective",
+        "url": "https://opencollective.com/babel"
+      }
+    },
+    "node_modules/gatsby-recipes/node_modules/@babel/core/node_modules/semver": {
+      "version": "5.7.2",
+      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/semver/-/semver-5.7.2.tgz",
+      "integrity": "sha512-cBznnQ9KjJqU67B52RMC65CMarK2600WFnbkcaiwWq3xy/5haFJlshgnpjovMVJ+Hff49d8GEn0b87C5pDQ10g==",
+      "license": "ISC",
+      "bin": {
+        "semver": "bin/semver"
+      }
+    },
+    "node_modules/gatsby-recipes/node_modules/@babel/plugin-proposal-object-rest-spread": {
+      "version": "7.12.1",
+      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/@babel/plugin-proposal-object-rest-spread/-/plugin-proposal-object-rest-spread-7.12.1.tgz",
+      "integrity": "sha512-s6SowJIjzlhx8o7lsFx5zmY4At6CTtDvgNQDdPzkBQucle58A6b/TTeEBYtyDgmcXjUTM+vE8YOGHZzzbc/ioA==",
+      "deprecated": "This proposal has been merged to the ECMAScript standard and thus this plugin is no longer maintained. Please use @babel/plugin-transform-object-rest-spread instead.",
+      "license": "MIT",
+      "dependencies": {
+        "@babel/helper-plugin-utils": "^7.10.4",
+        "@babel/plugin-syntax-object-rest-spread": "^7.8.0",
+        "@babel/plugin-transform-parameters": "^7.12.1"
+      },
+      "peerDependencies": {
+        "@babel/core": "^7.0.0-0"
+      }
+    },
+    "node_modules/gatsby-recipes/node_modules/@babel/plugin-syntax-jsx": {
+      "version": "7.12.1",
+      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/@babel/plugin-syntax-jsx/-/plugin-syntax-jsx-7.12.1.tgz",
+      "integrity": "sha512-1yRi7yAtB0ETgxdY9ti/p2TivUxJkTdhu/ZbF9MshVGqOx1TdB3b7xCXs49Fupgg50N45KcAsRP/ZqWjs9SRjg==",
+      "license": "MIT",
+      "dependencies": {
+        "@babel/helper-plugin-utils": "^7.10.4"
+      },
+      "peerDependencies": {
+        "@babel/core": "^7.0.0-0"
+      }
+    },
     "node_modules/gatsby-recipes/node_modules/@graphql-tools/utils": {
       "version": "7.10.0",
       "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/@graphql-tools/utils/-/utils-7.10.0.tgz",
@@ -23173,6 +23173,16 @@
         "graphql": "^14.0.0 || ^15.0.0"
       }
     },
+    "node_modules/gatsby-recipes/node_modules/@mdx-js/util": {
+      "version": "1.6.22",
+      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/@mdx-js/util/-/util-1.6.22.tgz",
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-      "version": "4.0.1",
-      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/unist-util-remove-position/-/unist-util-remove-position-4.0.1.tgz",
-      "integrity": "sha512-0yDkppiIhDlPrfHELgB+NLQD5mfjup3a8UYclHruTJWmY74je8g+CIFr79x5f6AkmzSwlvKLbs63hC0meOMowQ==",
-      "dependencies": {
-        "@types/unist": "^2.0.0",
-        "unist-util-visit": "^4.0.0"
-      },
-      "funding": {
-        "type": "opencollective",
-        "url": "https://opencollective.com/unified"
-      }
-    },
-    "node_modules/unist-util-remove-position/node_modules/unist-util-is": {
-      "version": "5.1.1",
-      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/unist-util-is/-/unist-util-is-5.1.1.tgz",
-      "integrity": "sha512-F5CZ68eYzuSvJjGhCLPL3cYx45IxkqXSetCcRgUXtbcm50X2L9oOWQlfUfDdAf+6Pd27YDblBfdtmsThXmwpbQ==",
-      "funding": {
-        "type": "opencollective",
-        "url": "https://opencollective.com/unified"
-      }
-    },
-    "node_modules/unist-util-remove-position/node_modules/unist-util-visit": {
-      "version": "4.1.0",
-      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/unist-util-visit/-/unist-util-visit-4.1.0.tgz",
-      "integrity": "sha512-n7lyhFKJfVZ9MnKtqbsqkQEk5P1KShj0+//V7mAcoI6bpbUjh3C/OG8HVD+pBihfh6Ovl01m8dkcv9HNqYajmQ==",
-      "dependencies": {
-        "@types/unist": "^2.0.0",
-        "unist-util-is": "^5.0.0",
-        "unist-util-visit-parents": "^5.0.0"
-      },
-      "funding": {
-        "type": "opencollective",
-        "url": "https://opencollective.com/unified"
-      }
-    },
-    "node_modules/unist-util-remove-position/node_modules/unist-util-visit-parents": {
-      "version": "5.1.0",
-      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/unist-util-visit-parents/-/unist-util-visit-parents-5.1.0.tgz",
-      "integrity": "sha512-y+QVLcY5eR/YVpqDsLf/xh9R3Q2Y4HxkZTp7ViLDU6WtJCEcPmRzW1gpdWDCDIqIlhuPDXOgttqPlykrHYDekg==",
-      "dependencies": {
-        "@types/unist": "^2.0.0",
-        "unist-util-is": "^5.0.0"
-      },
-      "funding": {
-        "type": "opencollective",
-        "url": "https://opencollective.com/unified"
-      }
-    },
     "node_modules/unist-util-stringify-position": {
       "version": "2.0.3",
       "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/unist-util-stringify-position/-/unist-util-stringify-position-2.0.3.tgz",
@@ -46055,31 +45057,6 @@
         "uuid": "bin/uuid"
       }
     },
-    "node_modules/uvu": {
-      "version": "0.5.3",
-      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/uvu/-/uvu-0.5.3.tgz",
-      "integrity": "sha512-brFwqA3FXzilmtnIyJ+CxdkInkY/i4ErvP7uV0DnUVxQcQ55reuHphorpF+tZoVHK2MniZ/VJzI7zJQoc9T9Yw==",
-      "dependencies": {
-        "dequal": "^2.0.0",
-        "diff": "^5.0.0",
-        "kleur": "^4.0.3",
-        "sade": "^1.7.3"
-      },
-      "bin": {
-        "uvu": "bin.js"
-      },
-      "engines": {
-        "node": ">=8"
-      }
-    },
-    "node_modules/uvu/node_modules/kleur": {
-      "version": "4.1.4",
-      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/kleur/-/kleur-4.1.4.tgz",
-      "integrity": "sha512-8QADVssbrFjivHWQU7KkMgptGTl6WAcSdlbBPY4uNF+mWr6DGcKrvY2w4FQJoXch7+fKMjj0dRrL75vk3k23OA==",
-      "engines": {
-        "node": ">=6"
-      }
-    },
     "node_modules/v8-compile-cache": {
       "version": "2.3.0",
       "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/v8-compile-cache/-/v8-compile-cache-2.3.0.tgz",
@@ -46183,7 +45160,6 @@
       "version": "3.2.0",
       "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/vfile-location/-/vfile-location-3.2.0.tgz",
       "integrity": "sha512-aLEIZKv/oxuCDZ8lkJGhuhztf/BW4M+iHdCwglA/eWc+vtuRFJj8EtgceYFX4LRjOhCAAiNHsKGssC6onJ+jbA==",
-      "dev": true,
       "license": "MIT",
       "funding": {
         "type": "opencollective",
@@ -48152,15 +47128,6 @@
       "engines": {
         "node": ">= 6"
       }
-    },
-    "node_modules/zwitch": {
-      "version": "2.0.2",
-      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/zwitch/-/zwitch-2.0.2.tgz",
-      "integrity": "sha512-JZxotl7SxAJH0j7dN4pxsTV6ZLXoLdGME+PsjkL/DaBrVryK9kTGq06GfKrwcSOqypP+fdXGoCHE36b99fWVoA==",
-      "funding": {
-        "type": "github",
-        "url": "https://github.com/sponsors/wooorm"
-      }
     }
   }
 }
diff --git a/package.json b/package.json
index 64f431eb..25268b7f 100644
--- a/package.json
+++ b/package.json
@@ -62,6 +62,7 @@
     "clsx": "1.1.1",
     "gatsby": "2.32.13",
     "gatsby-image": "2.11.0",
+    "gatsby-link": "2.11.0",
     "gatsby-plugin-canonical-urls": "2.10.0",
     "gatsby-plugin-layout": "1.10.0",
     "gatsby-plugin-manifest": "2.12.1",
@@ -71,6 +72,7 @@
     "gatsby-plugin-react-helmet": "3.10.0",
     "gatsby-plugin-sharp": "2.14.4",
     "gatsby-plugin-sitemap": "2.12.0",
+    "gatsby-react-router-scroll": "3.7.0",
     "gatsby-source-filesystem": "2.11.1",
     "gatsby-transformer-sharp": "2.12.1",
     "google-map-react": "2.1.8",
@@ -143,6 +145,7 @@
     },
     "express": {
       "qs": "6.9.7"
-    }
+    },
+    "remark-mdx": "1.6.22"
   }
 }
diff --git a/plugins/ensure-google-fonts-dirs/gatsby-node.js b/plugins/ensure-google-fonts-dirs/gatsby-node.js
new file mode 100644
index 00000000..037f518f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/plugins/ensure-google-fonts-dirs/gatsby-node.js
@@ -0,0 +1,10 @@
+const fs = require("fs")
+
+const ensureDirs = () => {
+  fs.mkdirSync(".cache/google-fonts/fonts", { recursive: true })
+  fs.mkdirSync("public/google-fonts", { recursive: true })
+}
+
+// Runs before later plugins' onPreBootstrap (including prefetch-google-fonts).
+exports.onPreBootstrap = ensureDirs
+exports.onPreInit = ensureDirs
diff --git a/plugins/ensure-google-fonts-dirs/gatsby-node.test.js b/plugins/ensure-google-fonts-dirs/gatsby-node.test.js
new file mode 100644
index 00000000..4c93662a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/plugins/ensure-google-fonts-dirs/gatsby-node.test.js
@@ -0,0 +1,24 @@
+const fs = require("fs")
+const path = require("path")
+const os = require("os")
+
+const { onPreBootstrap } = require(".")
+
+describe("ensure-google-fonts-dirs plugin", () => {
+  it("creates .cache/google-fonts/fonts and public/google-fonts", () => {
+    const cwd = process.cwd()
+    const tmp = fs.mkdtempSync(path.join(os.tmpdir(), "ensure-fonts-"))
+    process.chdir(tmp)
+
+    try {
+      onPreBootstrap()
+      expect(fs.existsSync(path.join(tmp, ".cache/google-fonts/fonts"))).toBe(
+        true
+      )
+      expect(fs.existsSync(path.join(tmp, "public/google-fonts"))).toBe(true)
+    } finally {
+      process.chdir(cwd)
+      fs.rmSync(tmp, { recursive: true, force: true })
+    }
+  })
+})
diff --git a/plugins/ensure-google-fonts-dirs/package.json b/plugins/ensure-google-fonts-dirs/package.json
new file mode 100644
index 00000000..ff497b69
--- /dev/null
+++ b/plugins/ensure-google-fonts-dirs/package.json
@@ -0,0 +1,6 @@
+{
+  "name": "ensure-google-fonts-dirs",
+  "version": "1.0.0",
+  "private": true,
+  "main": "gatsby-node.js"
+}